Planning & Preparation

How to Measure Required Materials Required Tools Cutting & Drilling Tiles Preparing the Substrate

How to Measure

Accurate measurements are very important to ensure you have sufficient tiles all from one batch and if using a tiling contractor the aim is to avoid expensive downtime whilst waiting for more tiles. The general principle of measuring for tiles is to measure the whole area and deduct the areas that aren't to be tiled from the total, such as doors, windows, and baths

EXAMPLE of Wall Tile Measuring

Below is a basic diagram, demonstrating the method of calculating the square area of a 'to be tiled' wall surface:

An area not shown on the above diagram is the window reveal
- in this example we will say that the window reveal measures 0.17m deep.

Calculations

Area

2x(1.4x0.17) = 0.42
2x(2.24x0.17) = 0.76
2x(3.4x2.4) = 16.32
2x(2.6x2.4) = 12.48

Deductions

2.28x1 =2.28
0.6x0.9 = 0.54
1.98x0.6 = 1.18
2.24x1.24 = 2.77

Linear Border

2x3.4 = 6.8
2x2.6 = 5.2

EXAMPLE of Floor Tile Measuring

Area

5.9x1.7 = 10.03
1.8x1.6 = 2.88

Deductions

N/A

These calculations are the net areas; therefore wastage needs to be added. Wastage factors vary however, dependent on the size of the room and tile. On average 10% extra is added for a typical tiling job (i.e. average room and tile size), however increased levels of wastage needs to be accounted for if the tiles are large or the room is small

How to Measure Required Materials Required Tools Cutting & Drilling Tiles Preparing the Substrate

Required Materials

1. Preparation products - what is the condition of the substrate; does it need levelling, priming etc?

2. Tiles - research tile type; i.e. ceramic, porcelain, quarry, stone and glass

3. Adhesive - what adhesive is best suited to your chosen tile type and substrate?

4. Grout - what grout is best suited to your chosen tile type (also think about colour) and the location of the tiled surface (i.e. wet or dry environment)

5. Cleaning, Sealing and Maintenance products - where is the tiled surface situated (i.e. external or internal) and does it require sealing? What is the desired look of the tile, matt, gloss, natural?

How to Measure Required Materials Required Tools Cutting & Drilling Tiles Preparing the Substrate

Required Tools

Have you got the right tools for the job?

Take a look at our recommended, wall and floor tiling, tool lists below. The London Tile Co. offer all the tools you need, from the planning stages through to the application process.

How to Measure Required Materials Required Tools Cutting & Drilling Tiles Preparing the Substrate

Cutting & Drilling Tiles

It is essential to use the correct tools to cut and drill the various types of tile for their different applications.

PLEASE NOTE: ALWAYS wear eye protection and work gloves while cutting and/or drilling tiles

Cutting

There are several different tile-cutting tools available, each specifically suited to a particular cutting process. Different cutters are suited to different tile types (i.e. ceramic, quarry, porcelain, and the many variations of natural stone) and applications (i.e. the shape of the cut, whether straight, diagonal, rectangular or curved)

Read the information below to find out which cutting method is best suited to your design and purpose.

TILE CUTTING OPTIONS Tile Scribe Nippers Manual Tile Cutter Electric Tile Cutter

Cutting Tiles using a Tile Scriber

The traditional scribe and break method of cutting is:

• A quick and simple method of cutting wall tiles less than 200mmx200mm

• Suitable for straight line cuts

• NOT SUITABLE for rectangular or curved cuts

• NOT SUITABLE for use on thick/dense floor tiles (over 15mm depth) or hard tile i.e. porcelain and marble- for this an electric tile cutter is required

Instructions

1. Place the tile face up on a chopping board or similar

2. Measure and mark the tile for cutting

3. Place a steel rule on the tile and line the ends up with your measured cut marks

4. Use the tile scriber to firmly score the tile from top to bottom (pay particular attention to the edges- make sure you scribe right to the very edge of the tile)

5. Remove the tile temporarily and place a steel wire on the chopping board (attach to the board if you are making a lot of cuts) and lay the tile (still face up) on top of the wire, ensuring the wire lines up exactly with the scribed line

6. Apply pressure to both edges (either side of the scribe line) at the same time
   The tile should break along the score mark, leaving a clean cut

Cutting Tiles using Tile Nippers

Tile nippers are:

• Ideal for cutting curved or irregular shapes out of tiles, and marginally reducing a tile's size (where the cut would be too small for other cutters)

• NOT SUITABLE for use on thick/dense floor tiles (over 15mm depth) or hard tile i.e. porcelain and marble- for this an electric tile cutter is required

Instructions

1. Measure and mark the tile where you intend to cut it

2. Score along the marked line, using a tile scribe, to make the cut easier and cleaner

3. Hold the tile face up and grip the tile between the jaws of the nipper, squeeze firmly, pull down, and slightly twist to break off small bits at a time
   Note. Always start at the edge and don't 'bite off more than you can chew' - make only small notches until you master this technique. Attempting to cut pieces that are too large are likely to result in breakages

Cutting Tiles with a Manual Tile Cutter
A manual (score and separate) tile cutter is:

• Ideal for large quantities of straight or diagonal cuts (faster than using a tile scribe)

• NOT SUITABLE for rectangular or curved cuts

• NOT SUITABLE for use on thick/dense floor tiles (over 15mm depth), hard tiles i.e. porcelain and marble or tiles longer than the specified cutting length of the individual score and separate cutter (i.e. The London Tile Co. offers a variety of Rubi manual tile cutters (of varying price) suitable for cutting tiles up to 660mm in length, whereas our Genesis range can cut tiles up to 1000mm in length)

Instructions

1. Check that the cutter's base is large enough for your tile (diagonal cuts need a cutter that is 50% longer than the tile)

2. Measure and mark the tile for cutting

3. Line up the tile by moving the carriage towards you and checking the position of the scribing wheel against your measured cut marks

4. Move the carriage to edge of the tile closest you, lower the scribe to the tile's surface and firmly score up the tile (avoid putting too much pressure on the tile, as it is liable to chip)

   You should only need to score the tile once (with a decent scribing wheel), but you may find you need to score it again. You will find some tiles score more easily than others, often depending on the tiles finish

5. Ensure the tile has not moved out of position and use the cutter's mechanical separator to break the tile
   Note. We recommend practicing using the manual tile cutter on scrap or old tiles first

Cutting Tiles with an Electric Tile Cutter

An electric tile cutter, also known as a 'wet' tile cutter is:

• Suitable for cutting straight, diagonal, rectangular or curved lines (curves are technically best cut with tungsten tipped tile nippers, however tile nippers can be difficult to use on hard tiles such as porcelain or marble; nippers are better suited to less dense ceramic wall tiles)

• Ideal for cutting large quantities of tiles very cleanly and accurately

• Suitable for cutting thick, dense, hard floor tiles with ease (however, extremely thick tiles may need to be run through the electric tile cutter on both sides)

• NOT ideal for cutting just a few straight line tile cuts (the score & separate manual tile cutter is a faster method)

Instructions

1. Place the electric tile cutter on a flat, level and sound surface

2. Fill the reservoir within the electric tile cutter with water, ensuring that enough water remains in the reservoir to cover the pump at all times
   Note. electric tile cutters use water to cool the blade, it is therefore advisable to use a circuit breaker when using a 240 volt supply

3. Measure and mark the back of the tile for cutting and turn on the machine

4. Place a wooden block behind the tile to protect your hands and push the wooden block forwards, feeding the tile slowly into the machine adjusting the pressure applied to maintain blade speed (too much pressure and the blade may stall and the tile crack)
   Note. when cutting porcelain the diamond blade may become dull and fail to cut, if this happens the blade can be sharpened by cutting a house brick

5. Turn off the motor and pull the tile out
   Reposition the tile and feed it back through the machine if you need to make additional cuts (i.e. rectangular cuts)

Drilling

Choose a tile drill bit - regular drill bits are not strong enough to drill through tiles

Recommended Drill Bits

A carbide-tipped masonry drill bit is cost effective drill bit suitable for drilling ceramic, natural stone and quarry tiles. They are designed for drilling into rock-hard surfaces without causing cracks, chips or breakages; however they are NOT SUITABLE for drilling porcelain or glass tiles.

Diamond-tipped drill bit is ideal for drilling through extremely hard tile surfaces, such as porcelain and glass. They are more expensive than carbide tipped masonry drill bits, but are extremely durable and will last much longer

Drilling Instructions

1. Cover the area of the tile you wish to drill with masking tape, to prevent the drill bit skidding and damaging the tile as well as providing traction for the drill bit

2. Measure accurately and mark the drill hole on the masking tape

3. Start your drill bit into the tape (start drilling slowly, on a low speed)

4. Increase speed slowly and apply constant firm pressure to bore through the tile (hard tiles can take some time drilling, but don't press too hard or you may break through the tile rather than drilling into it)
   Note. Lubricate the drill bit using a water cooling system to avoid overheating, wearing or breakage of the bit - this is particularly relevant for diamond-tipped drill bits

5. Once you are through the tile, swap to a regular drill bit and apply less pressure

6. Insert wall anchors
   Note. the portion of the wall anchor which sits in the tile should house only an unthreaded screw top, as expanding an anchor with a threaded screw in a tile may cause the tile to crack. The board behind should be relied upon for anchorage

How to Measure Required Materials Required Tools Cutting & Drilling Tiles Preparing the Substrate

Preparing the Substrate

What is the substrate and how does this affect the tiling process?

Find out the type of substrate prior to planning your tiling application, and remember, different substrates react differently to different tiling processes, i.e. weight of tile, location and application etc.

Floor Tiling Preparation

It is essential to fully prepare the substrate prior to tiling; time spent at this stage will help avoid the risk of an expensive tiling disaster.

There are several different types of floor substrates, including Sand and Cement Screed, Anhydrite Screeds, Existing Ceramic or Natural Stone Tiles, Timber Based Boards, Concrete and Vinyl Sheet and Tiles; so it is essential to find out what type of material you are attempting to tile to, what are its properties and what preparation methods are necessary to make it suitable for your desired applications, i.e. wet room environment. Please find below a list of the most common floor substrates you are likely to come across, their properties and their preparation processes.

Note. Remember ALL floor substrates must be fully dry, free from contamination, sound, straight and true prior to tiling

Sand and Cement Screed

• Ensure it is at least 3 weeks old

• Check for any weak or hollow areas; cut out and repair any such areas

• Prime any dry and dusty surfaces, using acrylic primer (diluted as product packaging recommends)

• Check that the floor is straight and true, if it is not, use a self-levelling sub-floor smoothing compound

Timber Based Boards

Remove any varnish, wax and/or paint from the timber boards, make sure the boards are completely dry, check the boards are securely fixed with non-rusting screws and that the fixings sit flush (do not protrude) from the boards and check that the floor is straight and true. If it is not, use a self-levelling sub-floor smoothing compound
Note. If the floorboards are extremely uneven, the boards should be lifted out, additional noggins inserted between the joists and the boards re-laid

There are now three options available:

1. If the timber flooring is level, tiling can be carried out direct to the floorboards using suitable adhesives and primer.

   This substrate, however, is NOT SUITABLE if tiling in a wet room location, or when using underfloor heating systems

2. WBP plywood can be used as an overlay, however it must be acclimatised for a minimum of 48 hours. The backs and edges must also be painted with polyurethane paint and screwed at 300mm intervals with non-rusting screws (which must sit flush with the plywood overlay)

3. The recommended / ideal solution, particularly for wet room and underfloor heating installations, is the application of tile backer boards over the timber substrate. Tile backer boards provide a flat, firm surface on which to tile that has excellent waterproofing and heat insulation qualities.

   DO NOT overlay with MDF, hardboard, ‘green’ chipboard or any ply (except WBP ply). If the flooring is made up of any of these materials, they must be waterproofed with tile backer boards prior to tiling

Existing Ceramic or Natural Stone Tiles

Check that the existing tiles are firmly bonded and are clean and sound

If the tiles are not firmly bonded there are two options available:

1. Remove ALL the tiles, back to the substrate, then treat the substrate accordingly

2. Replace the few tiles, which are either broken or not sufficiently bonded, with new tiles of the same height, width and depth, clean the tiled surface thoroughly, remove all wax and polish, then prime the tiled surface using acrylic primer (diluted as product packaging recommends). Then apply the adhesive, tiles and grout etc. in the usual manner

Anhydrite Screeds

Calcium sulphate based screed can look like traditional sand cement screeds but need very specific preparation, please refer to the detailed

Concrete

• Ensure it is at least 6 weeks old, to allow for shrinkage

• Check for any weak or hollow areas; cut out and repair any such areas

• Prime any dry and dusty surfaces using acrylic primer (diluted as product packaging recommends)

• Check that the floor is straight and true, if it is not, use a self-levelling sub-floor smoothing compound

Vinyl Sheet and Tiles

There are two options available:

1. Remove the vinyl, lino or thermoplastic tiles and their adhesive, back to the base substrate - then treat the substrate accordingly before tiling.

2. Check the vinyl sheet and tiles are firmly bonded to the substrate, remove any loose brittle material, wax and polishes and repair with self-levelling sub-floor smoothing compound prior to tiling

Tile Backer Boards

Tile backer boards are the best surface to tile to and as long as the boards are securely fixed using non-rusting screws, there is no additional preparation necessary.

SUITABLE for both underfloor heating and wet room environments

Wall Tiling Preparation

Preparing the substrate is key to the success of a tiling project; without the appropriate knowledge of your substrate and relevant preparation techniques, the tiles may not properly adhere to the surface etc. Time spent at this stage, preparing the substrate, may help avoid a lengthy and expensive restoration project later down the line.

There are a variety of different types of wall substrates, including Plaster, Plasterboard, Render, Timber Based Boards, Tile Backer Boards, Brick and Block work, Paint and Existing Tiles; with a diverse range of properties suitable for a vast array of different tiling applications. It is essential to find out what type of material you are attempting to tile to, what its capabilities are and necessary preparation techniques to make sure it is suitable for the required surroundings / applications i.e. wet room etc. Below you will find a list of the all the most common wall substrates, their characteristics, and necessary preparation techniques.

Note. Remember ALL wall substrates must be clean, dry, sound, and free from grease, dust, dirt and any other barriers to good adhesion

Plaster

Weight Rating: Max. 20Kg/m²

Click here to calculate your tile type/depth allowance with 3mm adhesive and 6mm adhesive

• Plaster needs a minimum of 4 weeks to dry and shrink, longer if conditions are damp and cold

• Check the surface of old and new plaster for loose, hollow sounding areas and remove and repair as necessary
  (If the wall has been papered ensure all traces of the paper adhesive is removed)

• Remove barrier materials and fine plaster particles with a wire brush

• Prime with an acrylic primer (diluted as product packaging recommends)